A Brazilian looked at me without smiling and said:
It’s the best day of my life, … it was up there for me to hehe!
The Biggest swell of the year didn’t disappoint
No crowd, only a few super friendly Brazilians
The wave in Pacasmayo is fickle but when it’s on, it’s on
Once again, awesome town!
Check out the movie here and the story and photos further down:
This post was almost going to get boring! For 6 days we surfed in average conditions, waiting for a big swell showing on the swell maps. Two days before it hit Peru, it was being claimed to be the biggest one of the year. And it was! For that reason pretty much everyone left Pacasmayo to go to Chicama where the waves are a little smaller and more perfect. It is also the longest one in the world (See Chicama and story here)
In my 3 or 4 years of surfing, I had never seen a proper solid swell so it was my chance and I decided to stay in Pacasmayo. All my traveling buddies left , but a few Brazilians stayed. My intention was to watch them as it was going to be too big for me, and my board was way too small for bigger waves…good excuse! Two nights before the swell hit us, Billabong announced that they would start the Pico Alto contest. It is part of the Big wave world tour, and was going to be 30ft (Check it out here)! Anyway, on the big day I woke up as the local guys were getting the boat ready: too hard to paddle out here, as the current is too strong when it gets big. One of them suggested that I use a bigger board, some kind of semi gun, a 6”9. At that point I didn’t really have an excuse to not give it a go. In the end, ten Brazilians and myself surfed 3 hours in some solid surf. Some people say it was 8 ft, some even say it was 10ft…regardless, we had a ball, and we all caught some bombs. It might not huge to international standard and we are all far from being good surfers, but what a reward for such a long wait.
The following day was identical but with even less people as a few more tried their luck in Chicama. A couple of guys who were in the rescue and photography team at the Pico Alto Big Wave came and couldn’t believe how good it was here!
A few tips if you stay here:
You will usually need a tuc tuc to go to the point or walk 35min from the centre of town. It cost only 5 soles.
Los Faroles (www.pacasmayolosfaroles.com) is the ultimate hostel, with awesome vibe, super comfortable, safe and affordable as ususal, (25 soles/ $10 per night). It is all geared up for surfers. Other people stay at El Mirador or the Duke which seem fine too.
Food wise, Café Café or Puerto Escondido are great and serve big plates! Its is around 15 to 20 soles for a main but the food is unreal. For a very cheap meal, all the little restaurants in town have “menu” which consists of a soup, main (rice with beans meat or fish) and juice for 6 soles (2 bucks!).
To get there, you can take a bus from Truillo (next to Huanchaco), Chiclayo (2hours away) or Chicama (1.5hours). A Taxi to Chicama is 130 soles and a taxi to Puemape is 40 soles. Puemape is 25 minutes away and is a great option for days where it is too small here as it picks up more swell there (see the Puemape post here).
Pacasmayo is unreal.